Lake Serene

February 20, 2010

Since it's been unusually warm in Seattle, Saturday seemed like a perfect day to head out for a hike. We decided on Lake Serene -- a beautiful mountain Lake only a little more than an hour from Seattle. It's very crowded in summer, so a winter hike seemed like a perfect opportunity to explore this trail without the crowds. Unfortunately, everyone else seemed to have the same idea we did. The parking lot was packed when we got there. I always have a sinking feeling when I get to a trail head and the parking lot looks like the overflow lot for a concert venue. Lots of people, lots of cars, lots of kids and dogs, and our arrival added two more people and one more dog.

We soldiered on, though, starting up the trail clearly marked with a gate and a "road closed sign." The trail is an abandoned road for a while, then turns into a narrower trail, and meanders through mossy, dense forest. After a little while, we came to a smallish waterfall cascading down slabs of granite. A little further on, the trail splits -- right to Bridal Veil Falls, and left to continue on to the Lake.

This is where the switchbacks start. There are 2,000 feet of elevation gain on the trail and most of them are in these 23 switchbacks. Many stairs have been built into the switchbacks, which make for much easier going, but also detract somewhat from the wilderness aesthetic. Based on the crowds I saw on this day, I'm sure having some trample-proof stairs in place is necessary for preventing erosion and further damage to the flora and fauna.

Usually when I hike, I fall into a sort of zen trance after a couple miles, where I'm walking without really thinking. It's sort of trance-like. In fact, it's one of my favorite things about hiking. I took a Buddhism class once where we were taught walking meditation, and I remember thinking that that was just a way of recreating what I naturally experienced on a trail out in the woods.

But not today. We were in a constant state of passing people going the other way. Each time we'd have to stop on the narrow path and figure out how to let each other by. "Hi, Hello, How are you?" And if the other person let you pass by first, "Thank you." We were passing people every couple of minutes, and at certain times, every thirty seconds. I never got to my zen happy place. We never even got to a place where we couldn't see or hear anyone else. I'm always happy to see so many people out enjoying the trails, and I recognize that I am one of the crowd, but when there are so many people out on a single trail, it does get frustrating. "Hi. How are you? Thank you."

Eventually, the switchbacks evened out a little, and the air starts to get colder. About fifteen minutes later we came to the lake. It was like entering an ice cathedral. The lake was frozen solid and was an opaque gray-blue color that seemed to reflect up onto the surrounding mountains. Mighty Mount Index looked down on us from one side. I tried to capture it in a picture, but I was never able to fit everything in the frame.

We walked a little further along the lake and came to "Lunch Rock," a rock on the edge of the lake that give you a clear view of the entire lake and the mountains. It was impressive. We decided to follow suit and enjoy our lunch there. It was freezing cold by the lake, so we pulled out the down jackets and hats and stared at the face of Mt. Index while we ate our cold pizza with gloved hands.

We explored around the lake a little more, checking out the views and the huge piles of driftwood, and then headed back down. It was a strange relief to get back in the car, close the doors, and hear silence.

Directions: Drive US Hwy. 2 east from Everett. If driving eastward, just before the bridge over the S. Fork Skykomish River, turn right on paved Mount Index County Road (right after mile marker 35). The pavement ends very soon, and the gravel road continues until it forks. Take the right fork, a very steep, narrow, dusty road about 0.3 miles to a huge gravel parking area. (With privies!) The trailhead is uphill, just beyond the parking area.

National Park Pass or Northwest Forest Pass required for parking.